One of the iconic locations in Prague closely linked to Franz Kafka—and a popular destination for tourists—is the quaint house at Zlatá ulička 22, situated within the Prague Castle grounds as depicted in this piece. This lane was once home to castle guards.
According to legend, it was also known as Alchemists' Lane or Goldmakers' Lane, as the street traces its origins back to the late 16th century. By 1594, Emperor Rudolf II allowed 24 marksmen to establish a settlement along the northern fortress wall. It was only in the 19th century that the lane underwent improvements, eventually taking on its current appearance. Over time, it became a haven for various artists and writers, including Gustav Meyrink, who set the plot of his novel "Golem" there.
Kafka and his sister Ottla became familiar with "Golden Lane" in mid-1916. For Kafka, living in the small house was significant—not just as a place to write but as a truly personal retreat. He appreciated the peaceful location, the beautiful path leading up to it, and the sense of solitude it provided. Reflecting on this period, Kafka expressed his satisfaction, noting the novelty of having an entire house to himself—separate from the world, yet modestly furnished by his sister and maintained with minimal care.
During the summer of 1916, Kafka’s sister Ottla rented House No. 22, but soon handed it over to her brother, Franz. Seeking a quiet retreat from the noise of his bachelor apartment on Dlouhá Street, Kafka wrote here from November 1916 to March 1917. Kafka usually spent the evening hours in the tiny little house, after he had done his day’s work and also had taken his supper. He could not stay in the small, ill-equipped room, however. Thus he usually went away in the early morning hours or towards “midnight down to the city by way of the Old Castle Stairs”. It was in the shadow of St. Vitus Cathedral that he crafted "A Country Doctor," a collection of short stories, which he wrote in 1916 and was later published in 1920. Interestingly, the titular doctor was inspired by Kafka’s maternal uncle, Siegfried Löwy.
At the time, Kafka’s work was known only to a limited sphere of readers, and widespread commercial success eluded him. By the summer of 1917, Kafka had to leave the house after the lease was revoked. This coincided with the worsening of his tuberculosis, prompting him to reflect that perhaps it was better to leave the damp little house for the sake of his health.
In our last trip to Prague in 2022, Alex bought be a copy of "A Country Doctor" as a souvenir from the little house of Zlatá ulička 22. As I read it, I couldn't help but imagine Kafka sitting in the tiny room, pouring his thoughts onto paper under the flickering candlelight. It was a surreal experience, connecting with one of my favorite authors in such an intimate setting.
While Franz Kafka's time at Zlatá ulička 22 may have been brief, it left a lasting impression on both him and the literary world. Today, visitors can explore the small house and its pieces dedicated to Kafka's life and work. This piece serves as a reminder of the impact that this quiet little lane had on one of Prague's most celebrated writers and that it is often in unexpected places where we find our inspiration.
